Диффенбахия

Возможные трудности
Диффенбахия заказать
Основание стебля мягкое и теряет цвет — загнивание стебля. Заболеванию
способствует переувлажнение почвы и пониженная температура воздуха. В начале
заболевания можно вырезать пораженное место, затереть ранку толченым древесным
углем и пересадить растение в свежую почву. Если поражение обширное, верхушечную
часть стебля можно укоренить, а оставшуюся часть растения выбросить.
Нижние листья желтеют и сворачиваются — низкая температура зимой или
холодные сквозняки. Растение сможет пережить температуру 10-12°С, но нижние
листья неизбежно пострадают.
Утрата окраски — слишком яркий свет или попадание на листья прямых солнечных
лучей приводит к их обесцвечиванию. Переставьте растение на менее освещаемое
место.
Отмирание листьев — наиболее веростные причины отмирания молодых листьев
— слишком низкая температура, сухой воздух или холодные сквозняки. Старые листья
с возрастом всегда отмирают.
Коричневые края листьев — пересыхание почвы. Она всегда должна быть влажной,
но не переувлажненной. Другой причиной может быть холодный воздух.

Полезные свойства



Очищает воздух от токсинов: формальдегида, ксилена, трихлорэтилена, бензола.

Часто задаваемые вопросы

1. Листочки диффенбахии практически все маленькие и зеленые
(а должны быть на 2/3 белые), те же листочки, которые, как положено, окрашены,
через недели полторы после появления начинают зеленеть.

Ответ: Тень — понятие растяжимое. Могут быть листочки маленькие и зеленые
от недостатка света. Тень — это не темнота, просто прямые лучи не должны попадать.
Большинство пестролистных растений при недостатке света теряют свою пятнистость
листьев. Или земля у Вас неудачная. Попробуйте подкормить ее удобрениями и пересадите
в специальную землю (для зеленолиственных растений). А если у Вас цветок привозной
— проблемы бывают почти всегда, ведь до продажи он рос в идеальных условиях.

2. У моей диффенбахии снизу появились желтые листья. С чем
это связано?

Ответ: Это может быть от сквозняков, которые диффенбахия не переносит
(хотя и не все сорта).

3. Диффенбахии 3 года, ствол оголяется, листья желтеют и
опадают. Просто старенькая и пора обрезать?

Ответ: Проверьте, не стоит ли она на сквозняке, от этого вполне могут
падать листья. Кроме того, возможно, ей просто тесно в горшке. Попробуйте пересадить
и добавить хорошей земли.

4. Листья диффенбахии рвутся.

Ответ: Проблема многих любителей ароидных. Мнения:

  1. У моей огромной диффенбахии та же канитель: лист не успевает выйти из
    пазухи, а уже раскрывается, в результате — рваные края. От чего это, сколько
    не искала — не нашла, но нашла способ борьбы: когда новый лист еще плотно
    свернут, обвязываю его мягкой ниткой, чтобы он сначала вышел из пазухи,
    затем нитку снимаю, и он тут же раскручивается без всяких повреждений. Главное
    не проследить момент.
  2. Дело в том, что листья растут быстрее, чем успевают развернуться. У меня
    стали расти нормально после внесения мочевины и калийно-фосфорного удобрения
    через неделю. Листики все развернулись, но некоторые остались волнистыми,
    а остальные растут нормально.
  3. И еще. Такая напасть происходит в середине осени. Может он, таким образом,
    реагирует на изменение в освещении? Старается быстрее тянуться вверх и поэтому
    не успевает развернуть листочки?
  4. У моей диффенбахии молодые листья так же странно разворачивались, когда
    она оказалась на сквозняке. Причем сквознячок был совсем небольшой.

Какая причина у вас — решите сами.

5. Диффенбахия выпускает новые листочки — пестренькие, а
потом они начинают зеленеть от краев к центру. Думала, что виновато освещение
— но перестановка на другое, более светлое место, не очень помогла.

Ответ: Это естественный процесс — с возрастом (месяцев через 7-8) листья
становятся менее пестрыми, светлая серединка уменьшается, но лист не зеленеет
полностью. Если не хватает освещения, то молодые листья пестрыми не будут. Кстати,
терять окраску диффенбахия может как от недостатка, так и от избытка света,
например, при попадании прямых солнечных лучей.

6. Что любит и чего боится диффенбахия?

Ответ: Диффенбахия любит достаточно влажный воздух, хотя, независимо
от влажности, нижние листья со временем стареют и опадают. Диффенбахия не любит
сквозняков, сухости, переохлаждения и перегрева. Диффенбахии, при всей своей
кажущейся силе, приходят в упадок от холодного или сухого воздуха, сквозняков,
а, самое главное, не выносят переохлаждения земляного кома. Если она стоит на
подоконнике, то может застудиться. При пересадке можно удалить часть корней,
растение будет более бурно расти. Замечено, чем крупнее горшок, тем больше листья.

7. Как укоренить отросток диффенбахии?

Ответ: Отростки диффенбахии укореняются, как правило, просто — можно
укоренять отростки в воде (как вариант — в темной склянке), корни появляются
через 2,5-3 недели, не забывайте подливать свежей воды. Или просто в земле.
Сажайте сразу в землю в небольшой горшочек, а как появятся внизу горшка корешки,
в горшок приличных размеров.

8. У меня есть кусок ствола диффенбахии. Но фокус в том,
что я не могу определить, где верх, а где низ.

Ответ: Если не знаете, где у нее «ноги», советую сажать «лежа».
Если на кусочке стволика видно, с какой стороны будет расти почка, то этой стороной
повернуть вверх. Найдите узел. Почка — это возле узла слегка вытянутое утолщение,
оно чуть светлее ствола. Так вот эта почка — сразу над(!) узлом. А ниже узла
— по окружности несколько точечных выпуклостей поменьше, это потенциальные корни.
Исходите из этого «верха» и «низа».

9. Залила диффенбахию, корни живые. Что делать?

Ответ: Отрезать верхушку и укоренить, оставшийся пенек проверить на
наличие узлов, из которых могут быть новые листья. Если есть — накрыть пенек
банкой, но проветривать надо и поливать умеренно.

10. Листья начали желтеть и засыхать, начиная с самого
кончика. Может быть, горшок слишком большой и земля не успевает подсохнуть?
Но ведь диффенбахия любит влажность. Подскажите, кто знает, что это может быть.

Ответ: А кончики сразу сохнут, или желтеют сначала? Если у сухого кончика
желтый ободок, то это от перелива. К большому горшку очень трудно приноровиться.
Она, конечно, любит влажность, но не в горшке, а в воздухе. Наверное, нужно
чаще опрыскивать, и реже поливать. И еще — она страшно не любит сквозняков (даже
маленьких), т.е., достаточно даже маленького потока воздуха из щели, чтобы она
среагировала.

11. Все новые листочки выходят с таким трудом и все какие-то
искривлённые и мелкие.

Ответ: Возможно, ей не хватает света или питательных веществ. Вы ее
пересаживали или она в торфе растет? Если рискнете пересадить, проверьте корни.
Быть может, завелись нематоды (листья от этого вырастают словно помятые).

12. У диффенбахии листья «смотрят» вниз, как
увядающие!

Ответ: Думаю, что у Вас это такой вид. Все-таки вялый лист — он и есть
вялый, а у Вас нормальные упругие листья. Новые листья по мере вырастания становятся
тяжелыми (размер листа до 50 см) и повисают. А у кустовых форм листья действительно
глядят вверх. Она у Вас похожа на ложную пальму и листья такие должны быть.
По-моему для волнений нет причины, а смотрится очень здорово.

13. Большой ей горшок нужен, или она предпочитает тесный?

Ответ: Чем больше горшок, тем крупнее будут листья. Диффенбахия оплетает
корнями земляной ком очень быстро. Любому растению предпочтительнее не тесный
горшок, а чуточку больше объема корневой системы. Если переваливаете растение,
то увеличивайте горшок в ширину и глубину на 1-2 пальца — не больше. Если сажаете
черенком или пересаживаете с разрушением земляного кома, то желательно емкость
подобрать небольшую. Лучше пересадить через полгода в большую емкость, чем загубить
растение загнившими корнями…

14. У кустовой диффенбахии стали желтеть нижние листья!
В то же время появляется много новых листочков. Как вы считаете — это естественный
процесс отмирания «старых»?

Ответ: Смотря сколько желтеет листьев. В принципе, пожелтение и отмирание
именно нижних листьев — вполне здоровый природный процесс. Волноваться не стоит.

15. Подскажите, пожалуйста, нужно и можно ли обрезать листья
с подсохшими краями у Диффенбахии.

Ответ: Обратно листья не позеленеют. Идет процесс: новые листья лезут,
а старые желтеют и сохнут, это естественно. Конечно, обрезать подсохшие края
можно, но аккуратно, по краю, не затрагивая живую зелень.

16. На листьях диффенбахии серый налет от воды, хотя листья
регулярно мою.

Ответ: Спецы советуют снимать налет безалкогольным пивом, разбавленным
пополам с водой. И еще совсем недавно кто-то поделился новым рецептом — использовать
пахту.

17. Диффенбахия криво растет!

Ответ: Выход один — освещать сверху, либо постоянно крутить. Также
можно подвязывать плотно к чему-нибудь прямому.

18. На листьях диффенбахии образовалось что-то похожее
на сыпь с обратной стороны листочков, и они начинают желтеть и подсыхать. И
— с обратной стороны листа маленьких черных ползающих заметила. Появились бурые
пятна на листьях, листья чахнут, скручиваются. Что делать?

Ответ: Черненькие — либо клещи (они очень мелкие, округлые), либо трипсы
(покрупнее и вытянутые). Бурые пятна могут быть от паутинного клеща. В любом
случае помогут «Актеллик», «Фитоверм» или «Агровертин».

Если нет ничего под рукой, срочно вымойте растение с мылом (причем намыленное
растение оставьте в ванной минут на 20), потом смойте. Но это, так сказать,
скорая помощь, обрабатывать все равно придется. Можно настоем чеснока (10 г
чеснока залить 1 л холодной воды, настаивать сутки и опрыскать, причем обязательно
так, чтобы попадало на нижнюю сторону листа). Да, и вам придется мыть и обрабатывать
все растения, плюс рамы подоконники и все где они стоят (паутинные клещи, например,
любят всякие укромные места).

19. Диффенбахия зацвела! Лучше его обрезать, как часто
с декоративно-лиственными растениями поступают?

Ответ: Важно, чтобы растение, которое ради красивых листьев держат,
свою главную красоту не растеряло. А цветение обессиливает его, нижние листья
вялыми становятся, растение может полысеть. Так что — обрезайте.

20. Кончики у листьев начинают желтеть, и не только у старых
листьев, но и у сравнительно новых. Желтизна эта еще на некоторых листьях края
захватывает.

Ответ: Последите за поливом растения. Если кончики сразу желтые и сухие
— это от сухости (кроме протирания ей нужно опрыскивание, вообще, в отопительный
сезон опрыскивание в любом случае необходимо всем растениям, ну кроме кактусов
и суккулентов, конечно же). Если кончики сначала становятся коричневыми и мокрыми,
а потом засыхают — это перелив. Кроме того, не исключено поражение вредителями.
Вредителя, в принципе, не так уж трудно заметить. Например, желтеют листья,
но, как правило, не только с кончиков и краев, но могут и в центре, от паутинного
клещика. Посмотрите с обратной стороны листа — паутинный клещик самый трудный
в опознании: с обратной стороны листа как будто светлая мелкая пыль или песчинки
— можно взять лупу или потрогать пальцем — если зашевелились — значит точно
он.

 

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