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Фатсия

Славянск - ФатсияФатсия (Fateia Japonica) – растение из семейства Аралиевые
(Araliaceae). Этот кустарник родом из Японии и Южной Кореи, в природе
вырастает высотой до 6 м. Растет довольно быстро, но в комнатных
условиях вырастает не более 2 м. В качестве комнатного растения
фатсия широко используется с 19-го века. В Европу она попала в 1930-е годы. Ценится за очень декоративные 5-7-лопастные блестящие ярко-зеленые листья, собранные на верхушках побегов и достигающие 30-40 см в диаметре.
Молодые листья вначале цельные, а по мере взросления приобретают характерную пальчатую форму. При хороших условиях содержания листья покрывают почти весь стебель, около корневой шейки отрастают боковые побеги.

Цветет фатсия в помещении довольно редко мелкими невзрачными беловатыми цветками, собранными на концах побегов в зонтиковидные соцветия. Плоды – черные ягоды с сизоватым отливом. Листья и побеги в молодом возрасте опушены мягкими рыжими волосками.

Есть пестролистные формы фатсии, которые выглядят особенно эффектно. Очень популярен сорт Variegata, его листья украшают нессиметричные кремовые пятнышки. Есть сорта с белой, кремовой и желтой каймой по краю листа. Сорта Albomarginata и Reticuhata имеют белые или пестро-желтые листья. Есть сорт с небольшой компактной кроной – Moseri.

Освещение. Не смотря на то, что Фатсия любит свет, её не стоит выставлять на солнце. Растение даже неплохо переносит тень, но только зеленолистные виды; Фатсии с пестрыми листьями требуют больше света, поэтому для выращивания на северной стороне подходят только виды с зелеными листьями. Оптимальными являются восточные и западные окна. На южной стороне Фатсии необходимо притенение от прямых солнечных лучей. Фатсия также неплохо растет и при освещении от ламп дневного света. Летом можно выносить Фатсию на улицу, но стоит притенять от солнца.

Фатсия уход


Температура. Лучший температурный режим для Фатсии весной и летом – от 17 до 21 градуса. В зимний период растение нормально себя чувствует и при комнатной температуре, но оптимальным является более прохладная температура (до 15 градусов максимум) при хорошем освещении. При слишком высоких температурах зимой, Фатсии требуется больше освещения, возможно, и флуоресцентными лампами. Пестролистные формы не должны переносить зиму с температурой ниже 16 градусов.

Славянск - фатсия фотоПолив. В летний период Фатсию нужно поливать, как только посыхает верхний слой почвы. Полив, начиная с осени, нужно сократить, а зимой, при содержании растения при прохладной температуре, полив сокращают значительно, следя за тем, чтобы почва не пересохла. Если же температура воздуха не очень низкая, полив сокращают незначительно – нужно просто не забывать сливать воду из поддона спустя 2-3 часа после полива. Нужно помнить, что чрезмерный полив, как и пересыхание почвы очень неблагоприятно сказываются на растении. Если пересушить почву хотя бы 1 раз, то листья опустятся и поднять их будет сложно – даже самый обильный полив вряд ли поможет. Придется подвязывать листья веревкой, но и это не даст гарантии, что все будет, как прежде.

Влажность. Большие листья требуют регулярного опрыскивания отстоянной водой, а также протирания смоченной мягкой тканью. В жаркую погоду растению можно сделать теплый душ. Зимой же опрыскивать нужно реже – прямая зависимость от температуры в комнате.

Подкормка. Фатсию еженедельно необходимо подкармливать минеральными или органическими удобрениями весной, летом и осенью. При низких температурах зимой не подкармливают, а при более высоких – подкармливают не чаще одного раза в месяц.

Обрезка. Фатсия хорошо переносит обрезку. Чтобы сформировать пышный куст, нужно у молодых растений прищипывать верхушки побегов. Фатсхедера Лице нуждается в постоянной подрезке.

Пересадка. Пересаживают растение в горшок значительно больше предыдущего в начале лета или весной один раз в три года. Формирование нескольких новых стволов у Фатсии возможно благодаря прикорневым отпрыскам. Земляная смесь нужна слабокислая или нейтральная. Чаще всего смешивают по одной части дерновой, перегнойной, листовой земли, песка и торфа. Еще одна подходящая смесь – 2 части листового перегноя, по одной части садовой земли и дерновой, а также 1 часть торфа и полчасти песка. Не стоит забывать о дренаже – он должен занимать 1/5-1/4 часть горшка. Фастия отлично растет на гидропонике.

Размножение черенками. Размножают верхушечными черенками преимущественно в весенний период. При температуре 23-27 градусов во влажной смеси песка и торфа растение весьма быстро пускает корни. Черенки должны иметь по несколько почек – их накрывают банкой и ждут укоренения. После того, как Фатсия пустит корни, черенки рассаживают в отдельные горшки. Эти растения будут невысокими, но очень густыми кустами.

Славянск - фатсия фотоРазмножение семенами. Семена сеют в ящики или горшки на глубину 1 сантиметра в смесь из песка, листовой земли и дерновой (1:1:1). При поддержании температуры в районе 18 градусов появятся всходы. После того, как ростки окрепнут, их нужно пересадить в горшки по 9-11 см в диаметре в субстрат из дерновой, перегнойной земли и песка (в пропорции 2:1:1). Рассаживают по одному саженцу в горшок и выставляют на освещенное место.

Размножение отводками. Если придерживаться всех пунктов указанных сверху, то растение будет укрыто листьями сверху донизу, но если все же случилось как-то, то часть ствола оголилась, то с помощью воздушного отводка Фатсию можно омолодить. Делаете весной небольшой надрез на стволе Фатсии, покрывают надрез влажным мхом, пропитанного питательным раствором (раствор нужно делать из комплексного удобрения из расчета 1 грамм удобрения на 1 литр воды), а поверх обматывают пленкой. Мох не должен пересыхать, поэтому его нужно постоянно смачивать. Корни должны появиться на месте разреза через несколько месяцев, а еще спустя пару месяцев обрезают верхнюю часть Фатсии чуть ниже места, где образовались корни и сажают в другой горшок. Ствол старого растения можно срезать под корень, покрыть мхом и продолжать поливать – со временем он может пустить несколько побегов. Другой вариант – не срезать оставшийся пенек под корень, а привить к нему плющ, входящего в то же семейство – плющ прекрасно приживется на стволе. В итоге можно получить красивое дерево со свисающими ветвями.

Ядовитость. Необходимо знать, что Фатсия японская (Fatsia japonica) ядовита. Нужно мыть руки после касания с растением.

Возможные проблемы

На листьях фатсии появляются пятна, листья засыхают и опадают – из-за переувлажнения почвы развивается корневая гниль. При первых же пятнах нужно опрыскивать растение раствором фундазола (2 г на 1 л воды) и поливать им почву.
Чернеет основание ствола, листья покрылись пятнами и опадают – гниль поразила корневую систему. Растение можно спасти, только если основание ствола еще зеленое. В таком случае обрезают все загнившие корни, присыпают толченым углем и пересаживают растение в меньший горшок в свежую влажную почву. Сверху накрывают пленкой и не поливают до подсыхания земли. Тепличку регулярно проветривают, а растение опрыскивают раствором «Эпина» до появления молодых листочков.
Листья желтеют и опадают – растение заражено паутинным клещом. Нужно срочно провести обработку соответствующим препаратом. Кроме того, если листья при этом сухие и ломкие – значит, в помещении слишком сухой воздух. А если вялые – переувлажнение почвы.
Листья бледнеют, кончики коричневые и сухие – недостаточный полив, летом крупные растения нужно поливать часто.
Высыхание и опадание листьев, появление медвяной росы – признаки поражения одним из таких вредителей, как белокрылка, щитовка или мучнистый червец.
На листьях появляется белый налет – значит, растение заболело мучнистой росой.
Из вредителей фатсия повреждается паутинным клещиком, тлей, трипсами, белокрылкой, мучнистым червецом, щитовкой. Как правило, это происходит при недостаточной влажности воздуха.
 
Пусть комнатные цветы всегда радуют Вас своей красотой! 
 

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