Инструменты, полезные советы и технические приемы

Для того чтобы построить деревянное сооружение, не обязательно быть опытным столяром, однако владеть самыми основными навыками столярного мастерства все-таки необходимо. Очень важно иметь под рукой самые необходимые и качественные инструменты. Простейшие сооружения можно построить с помощью всего лишь молотка и гвоздей, но для более сложных конструкций вам потребуются шурупы, болты и умение вырезать деревянные пазы и другие соединения. Для этого необходимо владеть определенными техническими приемами и уметь выбирать подходящие для строительства материалы.

Инструменты

Большинство из перечисленных ниже инструментов имеется в мастерской каждого любителя мастерить своими руками. Работать электрическими инструментами намного легче, чем ручными, поэтому, если вам предстоит, например, пилить доски или бревна, подумайте о том, не взять ли вам электрический инструмент напрокат.

Основные инструменты

Тачка пригодится вам для того, чтобы подвозить материалы и смешивать небольшие порции бетона для заливки фундаментов. Садовая тележка недостаточно глубока для этого, поэтому лучше использовать тачку на резиновом ходу.

Штыковая лопата нужна для выкапывания траншей под фундаменты, а совковая лопата пригодится вам для замешивания бетона и заливки его в фундамент. Бурав поможет просверлить в земле отверстия для установки шестов, поскольку с помощью штыковой лопаты вы не сумеете выкопать ямку такого маленького диаметра. Установленный в землю шест часто заливают бетоном. Очень пригодятся также большие садовые грабли и вилы. Для того чтобы вынуть из земли большой камень, вам может потребоваться лом. Для трамбовки земли возьмите деревянный шест или сделайте ручную трамбовку, залив для этого бетоном пятилитровую банку из-под краски со вставленным в нее шестом. Можно трамбовать

землю и просто твердой деревянной колодой, но гораздо удобнее делать это с помощью трамбовки.

Любую конструкцию следует предварительно разметить, поэтому вам никак не обойтись без рулетки.

Если вы сооружаете шалаш на дереве или другую поднятую над землей конструкцию, вам потребуется стремянка, а поскольку древесину, как правило, покрывают олифой или краской, вам будут необходимы малярные кисти.

Наконец, для вытаскивания ненужных гвоздей вам будут нужны плоскогубцы.

Разметочные инструменты

Все деревянные сооружения, не считая мебели, необходимо, прежде всего, разметить на земле. Для разметки больших сооружений необходимы колышки и бечева, а небольшие конструкции можно разметить на земле линиями, проведенными известью, мелом или даже мукой. Строительную нить часто продают вместе с металлическими колышками, но в случае необходимости вы можете использовать самодельные колышки и обычную бечевку. Для вбивания колышков в землю вам потребуется кувалда.

Если вы строите не шестиугольное или восьмиугольное, а прямоугольное сооружение, прямые углы необходимо проверять с помощью металлического строительного угольника. Можно использовать также метод «золотого сечения», или треугольник со сторонами 3:4:5. Отмерьте от угла 3 м (или 30 см, в зависимости от размеров сооружения), а затем проведите под прямым углом от конца линии вторую линию длиной 4 м (или 40 см). Если угол действительно прямой, длина гипотенузы этого прямоугольного треугольника составит 5 м (или 50 см). Таким способом можно проверять углы в процессе всего строительства.

Уровни

Ни один проект, даже самый простой, невозможно построить без уровня. Он поможет вам проверить как вертикальный, так и горизонтальный уровень сооружения. Очень полезен также плотницкий угольник со встроенным в него маленьким уровнем.

Еще одним из очень полезных и необходимых инструментов может стать самодельный уровень, сделанный из прозрачной трубки, или кусок прозрачного садового шланга. Трубка заполняется водой, а затем прикладывается к вершинам двух разметочных колышков. Принцип работы этого прибора основан на известном правиле сообщающихся сосудов. Он особенно полезен при раз-

метке на склоне. Если вершины колышков расположены на одном уровне, вода из трубки не будет выливаться, в противном случае вы поймете, как переставить колышек.

Плотницкий карандаш (или любой другой карандаш) нужен для того, чтобы помечать уровень горизонта на брусьях, стойках, распорках и так далее.

Столярные инструменты

Независимо от вида используемой древесины, вам потребуются различные пилящие и режущие инструменты, а также молотки, отвертки и гаечные ключи. Даже если вы купите заранее распиленные деревянные заготовки, вам все равно придется подпиливать и подгонять их. Легче и аккуратнее всего древесина распиливается с помощью электрических пил. Гораздо сложнее аккуратно отпилить что-нибудь ручной пилой.

Ниже будут перечислены только самые основные плотницкие инструменты. Если вы любите работать с деревом, постепенно этот список расширится сам собой.

Прямую, идущую под любым углом, линию проще всего отпилить дисковой пилой, а многие другие пропилы, в том числе и фигурные, удобнее всего делать с помощью лобзика. Если вам предстоит часто распиливать по размеру шесты, бревна или доски, подумайте, не купить ли вам собственную дисковую пилу. В наши дни можно выбрать инструмент любого размера и модели, включая ручные пилы в корпусе.

Среди других пил можно упомянуть награду, которой можно делать тонкие аккуратные пропилы, и универсальные ножовки. Для отпиливания торцов предназначена поперечная пила и меньшая по размеру панельная пила, а ленточная пила удобна для распиливания бревен. Продольная пила, как следует из названия, необходима для роспуска бревен и досок вдоль волокон.

Рубанки, рашпили и напильники не требуются для создания приведенных в нашей книге сооружений, но вполне могут понадобиться вам в других случаях.

Стамески  —  это идеальный инструмент для выдалбливания отверстий в древесине и чистовой подгонки краев. Угловая шлифовальная машина хороша для резки шпал и другой прочной древесины, а также для заглаживания краев на шестах, хотя некоторые предпочитают в этом случае использовать ременную шлифовальную машину.

Наконец, хотя для строительства собранных в этой книге сооружений вам будет достаточно любой ровной поверхности, лучше всего иметь в своей мастерской прочный верстак, на котором работать и удобнее, и быстрее. Для работы в саду лучше всего подходит легкий переносной верстак с тисками и набором струбцин. Такая вещь складывается и не занимает много места при хранении. Если вы не можете позволить себе приобрести верстак, обзаведитесь хотя бы прочными козлами.

Для того, чтобы скреплять деревянные детали, вам потребуются обычный гвоздодер и небольшой молоток для забивания гвоздей малого размера. Болты и шурупы устанавливают с помощью отверток и гаечных ключей. Лучше сразу приобрести набор разных отверток.

Струбцины нужны для того, чтобы прочно прижимать друг к другу склеиваемые деревянные детали, а также при отпиливании древесины, просверливании отверстий и установке шурупов.

Для просверливания отверстий вам также потребуется дрель с набором различных сверл. Несколько отверстий можно просверлить с помощью ручного коловорота или дрели, однако если отверстий много, лучше купить электрическую дрель, которой помимо всего прочего удобно заворачивать шурупы. Разумеется, к дрели вам потребуется набор сверл различного диаметра.

Прекрасным инструментом можно считать пистолет для вбивания гвоздей, намного облегчающий работу. Но дешевле обзавестись, с помощью которого можно крепить к древесине холст, парусину и другую ткань, а также собирать решетчатые конструкции.

Материалы и технические приемы

При строительстве садовых сооружений используются самые различные материалы и применяются разнообразные технические приемы. Древесина, которую вы покупаете, может быть обрезной или даже струганной, или необработанной, с обзолом (остатки коры) на бревнах и досках. При установке в землю шестов их фундамент, как правило, заливают бетоном. Если сооружение имеет крышу, вам потребуется кровельный материал. Кроме того, вам наверняка понадобятся гвозди, болты или шурупы, которыми скрепляют деревянные конструкции.

Древесина

Выбор древесины зависит от типа сооружения, которое вы хотите построить в своем саду. Породы древесины бывают разными, соответственно, в одних странах распространены одни породы, в других  —  другие. Как правило, основной выбор стоит между мягкой и твердой древесиной. Одни сорта древесины больше подходят для изготовления шестов, брусьев, реек, досок и так далее, другие  —  меньше. К твердым породам дерева относят дуб, эвкалипт, ясень и вяз. Некоторые сорта твердой древесины, например дуб, особенно популярны для строительства деревянных настилов. Однако многие ограничивают применение твердой древесины только изготовлением садовой мебели. Твердая древесина, в соответствии со своим названием, отличается прочностью, но и труднее поддается обработке. Мягкая же древесина легче в обработке и дешевле по стоимости. Мягкую древесину получают от хвойных пород включая сосну и красное дерево. Древесина медленно растущего красного дерева славится своей прочностью и устойчивостью к воздействию влаги, а вот древесина быстро растущей сосны требует надежной защиты от влаги, потому что на открытом воздухе быстро приходит в негодность, в Шесты (небольшого диаметра бревна, подтоварник, крупные слеги) для беседок, «сельских» шалашей, настилов, мостов и изгородей дешевы, легко поддаются обработке и часто используются для быстрого возведения садовых конструкций. Можно выбирать между грубыми шестами, с которых просто снята кора, и гладкими, обработанными на станке и одинаковыми по размеру и диаметру. Можно использовать также половинки бревна  —  они хороши, например, для перекладин и садовых экранов. В любом случае выбирайте шесты, пропитанные специальными   составами,   предотвращающими   гниение. Иногда шесты из твердой древесины обрабатывают креозотом, темно-коричневой жидкостью, получаемой из дегтя. Следует учесть, что креозот токсичен для растений и может вызывать гниение таких материалов, как полотно для навесов. Чаще шесты обрабатывают на фабриках растворенной в воде солью мышьяковой кислоты, которая придает древесине зеленоватый оттенок. Если вам приходится устанавливать в землю не обработанный шест, оберните его основание рубероидом (толем) или обработайте креозотом. Еще лучше обработать шест не токсичной битумной смолой, которая добывается из нефти.

Дранка (слеги, длинные палки) может быть пиленой или необработанной. Пиленая дранка представляет собой тонкие плоские полоски древесины, из которых удобно собирать шпалеры или решетки. Необработанная дранка имеет более «сельский» вид. Ее делают из молодых побегов деревьев, а используют для строительства плетеных деревянных конструкций (например, плетней). Необработанная дранка  —  недолговечный, но очень дешевый материал. Из него можно строить экраны, изгороди и даже плести садовую мебель, а также немудреные крыши для беседок.

Пиломатериалы, которые продаются специально для строительных работ, выпускаются в виде досок, бруса, планок, столбов. Они могут быть обрезными, струганными или ошкуренными со всех сторон.

Отзольные доски (горбыль) имеют неровные края, на них остается много коры, и они имеют самый «сельский» вид. Они получаются от распиловки с самого края бревна. Как правило, отзольные доски дешевы и используются главным образом для временных конструкций. Специальные полукруглые доски, также спиленные с краев бревна, ровнее и, как правило, обработаны пропиткой. Они дороже, долговечнее обычных отзольных досок, и имеют более привлекательный «сельский» внешний вид. Железнодорожные шпалы также используют при строительстве садовых сооружений. Они сделаны из твердой древесины и идеально подходят для сооружения ступеней, клумб или даже для мощения небольших патио. В сочетании с другими твердыми материалами и растениями из шпал можно сделать красивую дорожку.

Помните, что в целях безопасности любая деревянная конструкция должна иметь противопожарную пропитку. Размер древесины зависит от конкретного сооружения, например, шесты, подпирающие изгородь из штакетника, нельзя использовать как опоры для тяжелого деревянного настила, а, выбирая древесину для кровли, нужно учитывать размер столбов, которые будут ее поддерживать.

Размеры деталей, которые вы встретите в описании собранных в этой главе проектов, можно считать лишь ориентировочными, но старайтесь выбирать близкий по размерам материал.

Фундаменты и основания

Там, где встречаются фундаменты или основания для шестов и столбов, вам потребуется бетон, смешанный в нужных пропорциях из цемента, песка и щебня.

Почти во всех случаях можно использовать стандартный цемент. При смешивании с водой цемент через некоторое время застывает и превращается в монолитную твердую массу. При замешивании бетона к цементу добавляют чистый, просеянный, так называемый «острый» песок. Для замешивания бетона вполне пригоден речной песок. Никогда не используйте песок, нанесенный ветром.

Качество бетона зависит от пропорций цемента, песка, щебня и воды. Для большинства садовых сооружений используется бетон, в котором сухие материалы смешаны в пропорции 1:4:4 (цемент  —  песок  —  щебень). Воды следует добавить столько, чтобы смесь стала пластичной, но не растекалась. Для заливки шестов, которые должны поддерживать такие конструкции, как беседки или навесы для автомобиля, рекомендуется более крепкий бетон, замешанный в пропорции 1:3:4.

Строительство

Прежде чем отпилить кусок древесины, два или три раза проверьте его размеры и длину гвоздей или шурупов, которыми будет крепиться деталь.

Движения пилы при распиловке всегда одинаковы, изменяться может только наклон полотна (например, держат менее отвесно к поверхности древесины). Для того чтобы пропил получился аккуратнее, зажмите распиливаемую деталь струбциной.

Когда вам будет нужно соединить деревянные детали, просверлите в нужных местах отверстия, выбрав сверло, диаметр которого соответствует болту или шурупу. Для просверливания направляющих отверстий для гвоздей и шурупов используйте винтовое сверло, а для отверстий  —  соответственно,. В других случаях выбирайте плоские сверла нужного диаметра. Все направляющие отверстия должны быть немного уже и короче, чем вставляемый в них шуруп или гвоздь.

В большинстве проектов используются простые соединения, хотя некоторые из них делаются под углом. Более сложные сооружения, например, беседки или бельведеры, требуют пазовых соединений. В этом случае на обеих деревянных деталях выбирается часть древесины так, чтобы детали могли войти одна в другую заподлицо.

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