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Кирпичный экран

В нашем случае кирпичный экран отделяет садовое патио от расположенного поблизости гаража. Экран выложен перевязкой, и к нему пристроена простая деревянная скамья. На шершавой поверхности экрана прикреплены деревянные рейки, заменяющие спинку скамьи. К одному концу экрана пристроена также клумба, которая не только разрушает прямую линию сооружения, но и добавляет в общий вид новые краски.

Необычная стена

Эту необычную и красивую кирпичную стенку вы можете соорудить всего за несколько, и это совсем не так сложно, как может показаться на первый взгляд. Правда, для возведения такого высокого сооружения необходимо владеть основными навыками кирпичной кладки.

Перечисленные в таблице материалы рассчитаны на стенку высотой 1,8 м и длиной 3,5 м. Она сложена из обыкновенного красного кирпича и укреплена с задней стороны тремя опорными стойками (называемыми также пилястрами).

Если вы решите пристроить к стенке скамью, вам потребуется еще 60 кирпичей, которые пойдут на ее опоры. Кроме того, вам будут нужны 1 2 реек-брусков длиной 1,8 м и шириной 70 мм для сиденья (каждая половинка сиденья сделана из шести реек). Спинка скамьи делается из деревянных планок длиной не менее 2,5  —  3 м.

Фундамент для такого высокого сооружения должен быть прочнее, чем для остальных рассмотренных в этой главе конструкций. В таблице указан бетон, смешанный в пропорции 1:4:4, но если на выбранном вами участке слишком мягкая почва, замесите более крепкий бетон в пропорции 1:3:6 или посоветуйтесь со специалистом.

Разметьте фундамент с помощью стальной рулетки и строительного угольника. Траншея должна быть на 100 мм шире самой конструкции. Обозначьте траншею колышками и бечевкой, не забыв включить на каждом конце стенки и в ее середине опоры размером 340 мм х 340 мм.

Для того чтобы вам было легче выкопать траншею, прочертите ее края вдоль бечевы известью, мелом или просто мукой.

Снимите дерн и аккуратно выкопайте траншею глубиной 200 – 250 мм. Постарайтесь сделать дно траншеи как можно более гладким и ровным.

Закончив копать, уложите в траншею несколько кирпичей и проверьте плоскость дна с помощью уровня.

Залейте траншею бетоном, а затем утрамбуйте его коротким деревянным угольником или штыковой лопатой. Постарайтесь выпустить из бетона все оставшиеся внутри него воздушные пузырьки. Если вы собираетесь пристроить к стенке скамью, не забудьте добавить фундаменты для ее опор. Дайте бетону застыть в течение суток.

Прежде чем замесить строительный раствор, уложите первый ряд кирпичей но сухую и еще раз проверьте уровень сооружения. На этой стадии еще не поздно исправить допущенные ошибки.

Если вы решили сделать опоры для скамьи, они должны быть расположены с противоположной пилястрам стороны стенки.

Начните выкладывать первую пилястру, перевязка которой состоит из четырех кирпичей. Уложите кирпичи но строительный раствор и сразу проверьте их уровень.

Заполните центральную полость опоры строительным раствором, бетоном или битым кирпичом. Начните выкладывать первый ряд самой стены, постоянно проверяя уровень кирпичной кладки.

Достройте стенку до нужной высоты, используя перевязку. При двадцати рядах кладки высота стенки достигнет 1,8 метра. Для того чтобы стенка получилась абсолютно ровной, выкладывайте каждый ряд кирпичей с помощью нити, укрепленной на угловых блоках или шпильках.

Достройте опоры, которые должны быть заподлицо с верхним краем стенки, регулярно проверяя вертикальный и горизонтальный уровень кладки. Разглаживайте швы между кирпичами с помощью инструмента для заделки швов.

Если вы решили добавить скамью, приверните шурупами рейки сиденья к опорам скамьи, а планки, заменяющие спинку скамьи, – к самой стенке.

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