Олеандр

Славянск - Олеандр уходОлеандр — крупный вечнозеленый кустарник из семейства кутровых с узкими
тёмно-зелёными кожистыми листьями и буроватыми стеблями, покрытыми округлыми
чечевичками. Известно много садовых форм олеандра, которые различаются
между собой окраской (от белой до красной, жёлтой) и махровостью собранных
в кисть ярких крупных цветков, интенсивностью их запаха. В природе этот
кустарник растет у воды, образуя душистые цветущие заросли; распространен
в районах со средиземноморским климатом — от Южной Европы и Северной Африки
до Японии.

Олеандр относится к легким в уходе растениям. Обычно его выращивают в
оранжереях или в саду, в поликлиниках или офисных помещениях, так как
взрослый куст может вырасти в комнате до 2 метров и более, что отпугивает
некоторых цветоводов-любителей. Однако в домашних условиях все же возможно
выращивание этого красавца — олеандр очень хорошо откликается на обрезку,
даже (а, может, лучше сказать — тем более) на самую радикальную! С ее
помощью вы получите:
— во-первых, компактное густое растение, а не два-три чахлых, качающихся,
голых стебелька;
— во-вторых, высота этого растения будет зависеть только от вас!
— в-третьих, цветение будет более обильным.

Проводят обрезку олеандра сразу после цветения. Не обрезайте олеандр весной,
так как бутоны на ветках закладываются с прошлого года. И увядшие соцветия
не спешите обрезать — они могут зацвести повторно. Только не забудьте,
что во время работы с олеандром нужно обязательно надевать перчатки —
растение ядовито! Вещества, которые содержатся в соке листьев и стеблей,
могут вызвать высыпания на коже.

Славянск - Олеандр уходОлеандр нуждается в ярком солнечном освещении. Если растению будет мало
света, то его побеги вытянутся, листья поблекнут, а бутоны не раскроются.
Местоположение у олеандра в период роста должно быть теплое — 20-25 градусов.
Идеально вывозить олеандр летом на дачу (можно даже прикопать горшок с
растением рядом с водоемом) или выставлять его на балкон (при содержании
олеандра под палящим солнцем в поддоне горшка постоянно должна быть вода).
Если нет возможности устроить летом олеандру «отпуск на природе»,
то проветривайте комнату регулярно и интенсивно. А вот зимой придется
с растением повозиться (наверное, рано я сказала о легком уходе). Зимой
олеандру нужна температура от 2 до 12 градусов с обязательным содержанием
на свету: если поставить кустарник в затененное место, он сбросит листья
и на следующий год не зацветет.

А цветет олеандр обычно очень долго, в зависимости от сорта — с июня по
октябрь. В одном соцветии можно увидеть и цветки, и бутоны, и завязи.
К сожалению, не все сорта олеандра душистые. Как типичный южный цветок,
олеандр будет цвести, только ежедневно находясь под лучами солнца, а также
получая необходимое питание и влагу.

Во время активной вегетации олеандр поливают очень обильно; в период покоя
полив ограничивают. Не поливайте олеандр холодной водой — он этого не
любит. Не допускайте пересушки земляного кома, в том числе и зимой. В
отапливаемом помещении олеандру будут полезны регулярные опрыскивания
водой комнатной температуры: не будут сохнуть кончики его листьев. Подкармливают
олеандр с апреля по август удобрением для цветущих растений, он хорошо
отзывается на подкормки. Перевалка молодых
кустиков олеандра проводится рано весной ежегодно, пересадка взрослых
кустов — каждые 2-3 года. Рекомендуется плодородный субстрат: дерновая,
листовая земля, перегной и песок в пропорции (4:2:2:1).

Белый олеандр принадлежит к растениям, легким в
уходе. Как правило, его выращивают в офисах, оранжереях или в садах,
ведь кусты взрослого растения вырастают более 2 метров, что может
отпугнуть некоторых цветоводов-любителей. Но вырастить этот красавец
вполне возможно и в домашних условиях, так как олеандр неплохо
откликается даже на самую радикальную обрезку. С ее помощью можно
получить:

— густое и компактное растение, вместо двух-трех чахлых, голых стебельков;
— высоту растения, зависящую только от вас;
— более обильное цветение.

Обрезают олеандр сразу после цветения. Нельзя
производить обрезку весной, так как бутоны закладываются на ветках с
прошлого года. Увядшие соцветия обрезать не торопитесь — они очень часто
зацветают повторно. Помните, что при работе с олеандром требуется
обязательно надеть перчатки — растение ядовито,­ а вещества,
содержащиеся в соке стеблей и листьев, вызывают высыпания на коже.

Славянск - Олеандр уходДля олеандра нужен яркий солнечный свет. Когда растению мало света,
то его побеги вытягиваются, листья блекнут, а бутоны не раскрываются. В
период роста олеандр должен располагаться в теплом — 20-25 градусов —
месте. Хорошо вывезти олеандр летом на дачу, прикопав горшок с растением
близко к водоему, или выставить его на балкон, подливая постоянно в
поддон воду при содержании олеандра под палящим солнцем. При отсутствии
возможностей устроить летом олеандру «релаксацию на природе», нужно
интенсивно и регулярно проветривать комнату. Зимой растение требует
большей заботы, ему требуется температура от 2 до 12 градусов и
обязательное содержание на свету: в затененном месте кустарник
сбрасывает листья и на следующий год уже не цветет.

Цветут олеандры обычно очень длительно — с июня по
октябрь — и зависит от сорта и правильного ухода: ведь, как и всякое
южное растение, он цветет, только если получает требуемые питание, влагу
и ежедневную «порцию солнца». Одно соцветие содержит в себе и цветки, и
бутоны, и завязи, правда, не все сорта олеандра обладают запахом.

Олеандр уход за которым требует повышенного внимания
в отношении таких параметров, как питание и влажность, вследствие
плохого питания и недостатка влаги летом, излишнего тепла зимой приводит
к поражению растения тлей, щитовкой, червецами и паутинным клещом.
Фитоверм и Актеллик хорошо борются с червецами, тлей и паутинным клещом,
а щитовку снимают руками, протирая листья влажной губкой. Также все
растение можно промыть под душем, что также является хорошей
профилактикой появлению вредителей.

Не стоит забывать, что все части растения ядовитые, поэтому его не
рекомендуется выращивать, где находятся животные или дети. Листья
олеандра употребляют в медицине для производства лекарства, применяемого
при нарушениях сердечной деятельности.

Размножается олеандр летом черенками, причем легче укоренение происходит
у неодресневевших черенков. Можно укоренять их в земле или песке, но лучше
всего укоренять олеандр в воде — так быстрее появляются корни. Добавьте
в воду кусочки древесного угля, это предотвратит загнивание черенков.
Неудача при размножении олеандра — редкое явление.

При плохом питании и недостатке влаги летом, при излишнем тепле зимой
олеандр может поражаться щитовкой, паутинным клещом, червецами, тлей.
Щитовку снимают вручную, листья олеандра протирают губкой, смоченной водкой.
Еще можно промыть все растение под душем (это еще и хорошая профилактика
появления вредителей). Червецы, тля и паутинный клещ боятся Фитоверма
и Актеллика.

Несмотря на некоторые моменты, олеандр — благодатное растение, его можно
смело порекомендовать новичкам. Благодаря разнообразию красивых цветков
и возможности придания олеандру любых форм — от куста до штамба с плетистым
стволиком — он подходит практически для любого интерьера. Но не забывайте
о ядовитости все частей растения: не выращивайте его там, где есть дети
и животные. В медицине из листьев олеандра делают лекарство, применяемое
при нарушениях сердечной деятельности.
 

Уход за растением:

Славянск - Олеандр уходДля нормального развития и цветения олеандру необходимо очень светлое, солнечное место с постоянным притоком свежего воздуха.
Хорошо растет на южных окнах. При выращивании на окнах северной
ориентации может сбрасывать листья от недостатка освещения, поэтому
можно создать дополнительное освещение лампами дневного света.

В летний период можно выносить на открытый воздух (балкон,
веранду или в сад) и держать на солнечном, хорошо проветриваемом месте,
но следует защитить попадания осадков. В саду олеандр лучше разместит у
южной стены. Если у вас нет возможности размещения в летний период
растения на открытом воздухе, то следует регулярно проветривать
помещение.
Зимой также необходимо яркое освещение. Можно создать
дополнительное освещение, используя для этого лампы дневного света,
размещая их над растением на расстоянии 60-70 см, в течение как минимум
8 часов в день. В осенне-зимний период необходимо так же проветривать
помещение, но следует избегать сквозняков.
При недостатке освещенности, олеандр сбрасывает листву. Если вы
приобрели олеандр и он содержался при низкой освещенности, то к
большему количеству света надо приучать постепенно.

В весенне-летний период (особенно в период цветения) растение
предпочитает достаточно высокую температуру воздуха (20-27°С) с
постоянным притоком свежего воздуха. Осенью температуру плавно понижают
до 18-15°С. Зимой олеандр держат в прохладных хорошо освещенных местах
при температуре 8-15°С, с середины марта желательно не ниже 15°С. При
более высокой температуре требуется обязательное проветривание
помещения.

Олеандр с весны до осени  поливают обильно, сразу после того
как верхний слой субстрата подсохнет. В жаркие и солнечные дни при
поливе воду можно оставлять в поддоне. Также в жаркое время горшки
ставят в поддоны с водой и следят, чтобы вода в них была всегда. Но
если пасмурно и прохладно воду из поддона выливают. Полив производят
мягкой хорошо отстоявшейся и теплой водой (на два-три градуса теплее
температуры в комнате, где стоит растение).
В осенне-зимний период растение поливают умеренно, в
зависимости от температуры содержания, следя, чтоб не закисла земля, и
не загнили корни. Поливают спустя два-три дня, после того как подсохнет
верхний слой. Олеандр чувствителен к пересыханию земляного кома.

В опрыскивании в весенне-летний период растение не нуждается. В
жаркие дни лучше всего для олеандра будет если горшок с растением вы
поставите в поддон с водой. В зимний период все же желательно
опрыскивать растение водой комнатной температуры. При сухом воздухе
могут сохнуть кончики листьев.

Растение хорошо реагирует на подкормку в весенне-летний период
жидкими органическими и минеральными удобрениями (чередуя) еженедельно
либо раз в две недели. Подкормку следует проводить в пасмурные,
нежаркие дни и спустя полчаса после полива растения.

Пышность цветения олеандра зависит от его обрезки. Обрезку
производят после цветения, укорачивая ветки наполовину или даже больше,
потому что цветки образуются на концах однолетних побегов, хорошо
отрастающих после короткой обрезки. Обрезанные ветви можно использовать
на черенки, которые хорошо укореняются.
У цветущих экземпляров вегетативные побеги, появляющиеся под
цветочными почками, следует выщипывать, иначе они будут мешать им
развиваться.
Причина того, что он не цветет, в основном в отсутствии обрезки
или в слабой обрезке, а также в недостаточной освещенности, недостатке
питания и влаги.

Пересаживают по мере оплетения корнями земляного кома. Лучшее
время для пересадки – конец мая – начало июня. Молодые пересаживают по
необходимости — каждый год, взрослые через каждые 2-3 года. При
пересадке старые корни сильно укорачивают, можно немного уменьшать
земляной ком (для лучшего цветения растений). Когда растение достигнет
крупных размеров и пересадка будет невозможной, можно обойтись
перевалкой или заменой верхней части почвы на новую, не беспокоя
растение. Срезы корней присыпают толченным древесным углем.
Почва при пересадке берется преимущественно суглинистая, pH
около 6. Можно использовать тяжелую смесь из 2 частей дерновой земли и
по 1 части листовой земли, перегноя, торфа и песка, с добавление
роговых стружек. Необходимо позаботиться о хорошем дренаже.

Размножают олеандр семенами (редко), черенками или воздушными отводками.

При размножении семенами нужно помнить, что семена олеандра
быстро теряют всхожесть, поэтому их необходимо высевать вскоре после
созревания. К тому же появление всходов из семян происходит не
одновременно.
Перед посадкой в грунт предварительно можно замочить на 30-40
минут в растворе марганцовки, либо в системном или биологическом
фунгициде. Затем замачивают на несколько часов в теплой воде с
раствором циркона. Субстрат для посева семян составляют из вермикулита,
песка и древесного угля. Семена высевают во влажный субстрат, без
заделки в грунт, и слегка присыпают. Емкости устанавливают в теплое
место с температурой 32-35°С, всходы появляются в течение 7-10 дней.
При более низкой температуре 21-25°С время появления всходов
увеличивается и есть опасность загнивания семян. После того, как семена
проклюнутся, их необходимо подсвечивать лампой дневного света. Следует
поддерживать необходимую влажность и температуру (не ниже 18°С)
воздуха, регулярно проветривать. После появления первой пары листьев
молодые растения постепенно приучают к условиям содержания взрослого
растения. Когда у сеянца появится вторая пара листьев, их пикируют в
подходящие горшочки. Все лучше размножать олеандр вегетативно, так как
при семеном размножение происходит расщепление родительских признаков.

Размножают черенками весной или осенью. Черенок нарезают
длиной 10-15 см, затем его необходимо обработать древесным углем и
подсушить. Укореняют черенки в перлите, измельченном керамзите, смеси
песка с древесным углем. Вокруг корневой шейки насыпается чистый песок
или кладутся кусочки древесного угля, что предохраняет основание стебля
от загнивания. Поддерживают температуру 18-20°С и хорошее освещение.
Необходимо следить, чтобы субстрат не был сильно переувлажнен, так как
это грозит загниванием черенков.
Так же можно укоренять черенки в сосуде с водой, предварительно
бросив в него кусочки древесного угля, что предотвратить загнивание.

Корни на черенках при благоприятных условиях
появляются примерно через три-четыре недели. После того как черенки
укоренятся, их высаживают в землесмесь из равных частей дерновой,
торфяной и перегнойной земли с добавлением песка.

Для размножения можно использовать также воздушные отводки,
укореняемые во влажном песке или в стеклянной трубке, в которую
наливают воду. Нижний конец трубки плотно закрывают пробкой из двух
половинок, в которой зажимают ветку олеандра. Ветку намазывают воском,
чтобы возле нее через пробку не вытекала из трубки вода. Для
образования корней на ветке делают два круговых надреза и снимают кольцо
коры шириной в 2-3 мм. После образования корешков отводки отрезают от
маточного растения и пересаживают в горшки для укоренения.

Меры предосторожности:

Все части олеандра содержат ядовитый сок, в нем
содержится ряд сердечных гликозидов (олеандрин, корнерин и др.),
поэтому при работе с растением — пересадке или обрезке — следует
соблюдать осторожность. А в доме, где есть дети, лучше его не заводить.
Особенно ядовит сок для домашней птицы. При обрезке надо беречь глаза,
губы, чтобы на них не попадал сок олеандра. После ухода за растением
следует хорошо вымыть руки мылом. Сидеть долго вблизи цветущего
олеандра или ночевать в помещении, где он цветет, нельзя: можно
отравиться запахом его цветов. Обо всем этом необходимо предупреждать
детей.

Ядовиты не только стебли и листья, но и цветки и плоды,
поэтому надо внимательно следить, чтобы дети не брали их в рот.
Употребление растительных частей приводит к расстройству желудка,
рвоте, болям в животе, головокружению, нарушениям сердечного ритма,
расширению зрачков и остановке дыхания. Нельзя допускать, чтобы сок
растения попадал на раны.

Целительные свойства:

Листья олеандра содержать сердечные гликозиды. Поэтому их
собирают и используют для приготовления препаратов для лечения острой и
хронической недостаточности кровообращения II и III степени, особенно
при пороках митрального клапана с мерцательной аритмией.

Возможные трудности:

При недостатке света в летний период не цветет.

При недостатке света в осенне-зимний период растение сбрасывает листья.

Повреждается специфическим заболеванием – олеандровым раком.

Скудное цветение старых кустов олеандра происходит из-за недостатка питания и света, слабого полива и отсутствия обрезки.

Успехов вам в уходе за домашними цветами !

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