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Петуния

Сорта петунии культивируют как однолетники, способные цвести в
открытом грунте с июня до заморозков. Селекционерами сначала были
выведены махровые формы петуний, затем сорта с бахромчатыми цветками.
Особенно успешными в выведении махровых сортов оказались Японцы, которым
удалось получить сорта со 100 % — ными махровыми цветками. Долгое время
не удавалось получить петунии с красной окраской венчика. Такой сорт
Fier Chief впервые появился в 1945 году благодаря американским
селекционерам. В современном мире селекционеры петуний Англии, США,
Японии и стран СНГработают над выведением сортов петуний с уникальными
тонами двухцветной окраски, расставляя акценты на обилии цветков и
продолжительности сроков цветения.

Виды петуний отличаются размером цветков, которые достигают от 5 до
12 см в диаметре, в соответствии с размерами петунии классифицируют на
крупноцветковые и мелкоцветковые, по форме лепестков — на бахромчатые,
гофрированные, волнистые, гладкие, махровые и простые. Длительность
цветения одного цветка составляет 5 дней. Одиночные венчики разбросаны
от края до середины ползучего стебля, достигающего иногда 90 см, сидят
на коротких цветоножках прямо в пазухах листьев. Венчик петунии
представляет собой трубчатую форму, сростающихся к основанию лепестков.
Стебли петунии в зависимости от сорта могут иметь ветвления 1 — ого, 2 —
ого, и 3 — его порядка, так же кустики могут быть компактной или
раскидистой формы.

Все
сорта петуний во срокам цветения подразделяют на ранние, средние и
поздние, которые соответственно зацветают через 55 — 60 дней, 65 — 75,
80 и более дней после посева семян. Цветение одного куста может
продолжаться от 75 до 90 дней. Наиболее роскошного цветения петуния
достигает при сухой и солнечной погоде, с высчокой температурой воздуха.
С наступлением дождей и периодов похолодания декоративность петунии
снижается.

Размножение петунии

Славянск - петунияРазмножение петунии в основном осуществляется
выращивание петунии из семян. Для посева в домашних условиях нужно
запастись большим количеством семян, потому что недостаток света
несколько усложнит процесс выращивания. Чем раньше посадить семена, тем
раньше зацветет красавица петуния. Размножение можно также начинать в
феврале, если есть возможность дать сеянцам подсветку. В обычных
условиях оптимально осуществлять посев петунии во второй половине марта.
Вторая сложность – почва для посева семян и постоянное поддержание
необходимого уровня влажности.

Посадка петунии при помощи семян
осуществляется в питательную, легкую, рыхлую землю. За сутки до посева
на хорошо политую землю, высыпают подготовленные, смешанные с сухим
песком, семена (перед этим землю хорошо просеивают). После этого почву
опрыскивают и накрывают стеклом, температура должна быть на уровне 20 —
23 °С. Крошечные всходы появятся на 5-7 день. Им понадобится тщательный
уход: переворачивать стекло не менее двух раз в день (лучше утром и
вечером) и ежедневно опрыскивать. В этот период всходам необходима
высокая влажность, но не ее избыток, так как он может вызвать гибель
растения от «черной ножки». Стекло можно будет снять, когда появится
первый лист, и подрастут всходы.

Всходы петунии, которые начинают погибать,
необходимо присыпать сухим песком, быстрее распикировать и уменьшить их
полив. В середине весны, в апреле, рассаду петунии следует перенести в
парник. В грунт сажают после весенних заморозков, на расстоянии 30-40
см. В домашних условиях достаточно расстояния в 15-20 см. Пересадку эти
растения переносят хорошо.

Выращивание петунии

Славянск - петуния выращиваниеДля выращивания петунии следует умело подобрать ассортимент цветочной рассады, который отвечает всем требованиям (стойкость данного сорта к условиям внешней среды, размеры растения, цветовая гамма и прочее) сезонного озеленения садов, парков, скверов. Для посева семян на рассаду используют субстрат мелкой фракции, изготовленный на основе высококачественного верхового торфа, с соответствующим содержанием микро – макро – элементов и кислотностью рН, а также с минимальным уровнем засоленности.

Субстрат для петунии должен быть обеззаражен от болезней и вредителей и хорошо пропускать воду. Чтобы субстрат соответствовал всем этим требованиям для его производства используют верховой торф высшего качества, водорастворимые минеральные удобрения.

Для посева семян советуем использовать специальные пластмассовые емкости высотой не менее 10 см. Емкость заполняют субстратом на 8 см, оставшиеся 2 см оставляют свободными, чтобы при проветривании защитить молодые всходы от изменений температуры и движения холодного воздуха. Субстрат утрамбовывают с помощью так называемой трамбовки.

Поскольку у петунии семена очень мелкие, перед посевом их перемешивают с сухим песком (1:5). Высевать семена следует равномерно ( 1000шт в одну емкость размером 30х40см). После посева их не присыпают субстратом, однако следует сразу же полить через мелкое ситечко 0,1% -ным раствором превикура. Эта процедура необходима для защиты всходов от грибных болезней. Затем емкости устанавливают на подготовленные стеллажи и плотно накрывают крышкой из полкарбоната или стекла. В дальнейшем поливают только при необходимости. Чтобы не сдвинуть семена с места и не смыть, их осторожно опрыскиваю из пульверизатора.

Славянск - петуния выращиваниеНа 5-8 день ( в зависимости от температуры) после посева появляются первые всходы. Оптимальная температура для выращивания рассады петунии – 20-22 градуса тепла. Когда появятся всходы, крышку открывают, а температуру в помещении постепенно понижают до 18 градусов тепла. Далее поливают чаще, также соблюдаю осторожность. При создании оптимальных условий через 2,5-3 недели после посева появившуюся рассаду можно пикировать. Для этого лучше всего использовать пластмассовые кассеты со 100, 260, 380 отверстиями (наилучший вариант – кассеты с 260 отверстиями). После пикировки 1-й полив проводят с 0,1% раствором превикура, последующие – чистой водой. При этом температуру для укоренения всходов желательно поддерживать в пределах 18 -20 градусов тепла. При таких условиях растение быстро укореняется, и на 10 день после пикировки рассаду можно подкормить минеральным удобрением. Такую подкормку можно повторить 2-3 раза.

Через 3 недели после пикировки рассаду высаживают в цветочные емкости ( диаметром 8-10см), используя субстрат, содержащий наибольшее количество микро – и макро- элементов. После пересадки рассады в цветочные емкости для хорошего укоренения на протяжении 7-10 дней температуру поддерживают: ночью +18 градусов, днем +20 градусов тепла, затем ее понижают ночью до +14, днем до +16 градусов тепла. 

Почва

Предпочитает суглинистые или супесчаные почвы, но может расти на любой, достаточно плодородной. Она хорошо отзывается на внесение в почву перегноя или компоста, но не свежего навоза, так как он способствует поражению растений грибными заболеваниями. При подготовке почвы под петунию на участках с кислыми почвами (рН менее 5,5) необходимо внести известь — 200—300 г/м2. При весенней перекопке почвы в нее добавляют комплексное удобрение, к примеру, нитрофоску — 20—30 г/м2.

Месторасположение петунии

Светолюбива и теплолюбива. Хорошо растет на открытых солнечных местах. Крупноцветные петунии более теплолюбивы, чем мелкоцветковые, в сырую холодную погоду перестают цвести.

Секреты долгого цветения петунии

Практика выращивания петуний вывела такую формулу: большая емкость + регулярные подкормки достаточный полив + удаление отцветших цветков.

Славянск - петуния выращиваниеБольшая емкость для посадки петунии. Корневая система у петунии очень мощная, и земли ей нужно довольно много. Исходить нужно из расчета – 5л грунта на одно растение. Получается, что в контейнер объемом 10 л сажать нужно 2 петунии. В балконный ящик длиной 1 м – не больше 3-х. Если посадить больше растений, сильнейшие начнут подавлять более слабых.

Регулярные подкормки петуния очень любит. Нужно начинать кормить уже через 2 недели после первой пикировки рассады. В «детском» возрасте нужны удобрения с содержанием азота – для роста. Позже для закладки бутонов требуется фосфор и калий. Внекорневую подкормку хорошо проводить комплексными удобрениями с микроэлементами. Железо для петуний –важная составляющая часть питания. На его недостаток растения реагируют пожелтением листьев (хлороз). Исправить это помогает хелат железа, или его жидкая форма – «Феровит», достаточно 3-4 обработок с интервалом в несколько дней. Взрослые растения нужно кормить каждые 5 дней, чередовать корневые и внекорневые подкормки. Очень любят петунии монофосфат калия.

Достаточный полив петунии. Важно не перелить всходы петунии, очень уж они подвержены черной ножке. В целом же взрослые растения любят довольно обильный полив. Но кратковременную пересушку почвы переносят нормально.

Удаление отцветших цветков петунии. Желательно регулярно удалять отцветшие цветки. Это провоцирует новую волну цветения. Но если вдруг оно снизится, можно оборвать коробочки с семенами и отмершие цветочки, подкормить и снова будет …ТАКОЕ!
Если вы хотите чтобы петуния кустилась и не тянулась одним стеблем вверх, необходимо ее прищипнуть над третьим листом.

Болезни и вредители петунии

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