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Вазон из искусственного туфа

Такие вазоны представляют собой сад в миниатюре и очень популярны во всем мире. Их форма, стиль и размеры отличаются не меньшим разнообразием, чем высаженные в них растения. Совсем недавно садоводов захлестнула мода на альпийские растения, посаженные в вазоны из натурального или искусственного камня. Если у вас нет готового каменного вазона, вы можете обратиться к способу, который был придуман еще в первой половине 20-го века. Он состоит в том, что берется не нужная белая эмалированная ванна и покрывается снаружи материалом, который с успехом имитирует туф. Позже были изобретены составы, позволяющие имитировать не только обычный, но и вулканический туф.

Застывший камень

Раньше вазоны из искусственного туфа делали следующим образом: брали старую эмалированную ванну, покрывали ее стенки слоем клея ПВА, а когда тот начинал подсыхать, наносили на него смесь, состоящую из торфяной массы, песка, цемента и воды. В результате получался отличный вазон, неотличимый внешне от вазона из натурального туфа, в котором превосходно росли альпийские растения.

В наши дни изготовлением подобных вазонов занимаются не только крупные производители, но и энтузиасты-любители, без устали экспериментирующие со своими торфяными смесями. Оригинальный рецепт покрытия для эмалированной ванны включает в себя 2 части торфа, 1 часть песка и 1 часть цемента. В нашем случае были использованы те же компоненты, однако мы не стали покрывать составом ванну, а вместо этого соорудили вазон просто в выкопанной яме и затем извлекли его из земли. Не забудьте, что песок нужно использовать только крупный, поскольку именно он позволяет так точно имитировать фактуру камня.

Найдите в саду площадку, на которой можно выкопать яму без риска повредить посаженные здесь растения. Почва на выбранном участке должна быть хорошо утрамбованной, в противном случае стенки вашей формы будут осыпаться. Разметьте на земле прямоугольник со сторонами не более чем 850 мм х 650 мм. Разметьте прямоугольник колышками или мелом и с помощью строительного угольника выведите все углы под 90 градусов. Снимите слой почвы глубиной 12 – 15 мм. Следите за тем, чтобы стенки котлована были совершенно прямыми. Теперь наступает самый сложный момент: вам предстоит выкопать узкую траншею вдоль всех сторон прямоугольника. Отмерьте линейкой по 12 мм от каждого угла по диагонали, а затем начертите внутри большого прямоугольника второй, меньший по размеру. Аккуратно выберите землю между двумя этими фигурами на глубину 250 мм, следя за тем, чтобы стенки траншеи были очень ровными. Если вы перекосите край траншеи или у вас осыплется земля, вам придется все начинать сначала. Закончив траншею, осторожно вбейте в середину внутреннего прямоугольника два деревянных колышка на расстоянии 300 мм друг от друга.

Смешайте искусственный туф в тачке, точно в указанных пропорциях, и следите за тем, чтобы смесь не была слишком жидкой.

Аккуратно уложите смесь внутри траншеи. Следите за тем, чтобы не повредить при этом ее стенки. Утрамбуйте уложенную смесь шестом, стараясь удалить из нее все воздушные пузырьки. После этого вы можете быть уверены в том, что стенки вашего вазона получатся прочными и плотными.

Нанесите слой смеси толщиной 5 мм по всей поверхности большого прямоугольника. Положите сверху металлическую сетку, пропустив ее ячейки сквозь два торчащих наружу колышка. Позже на месте этих колышков получатся дренажные отверстия в вазоне. Нанесите поверх сетки еще один слой смеси, аккуратно утрамбуйте ее деревянным прямоугольником и оставьте сохнуть приблизительно на неделю.

Чтобы вынуть вазон, аккуратно откопайте землю вокруг него так, чтобы обнажились его внешние стенки. После этого выверните вазон из земли с помощью двух крепких шестов. Выньте землю изнутри вазона и промойте все его стенки водой из шланга. Наполните вазон посадочным грунтом и засейте альпийскими или другими мясистыми растениями.

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